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Cupped boards are common problems after installation often due to moisture damage or flooring that was not dried sufficiently to start with.

The 5″ piece of Beech Flooring is what a cupped board looks like before planing. Much of the imported pre-finished wide plank flooring has moisture issues. Better to rent a moisture meter and check the ends of the boards for moisture content before putting material down from another part of the world. If it is more than 8% consider returning it for a refund. We have seen pre-finished flooring measure at or above 12%.

I was skeptical when Merv told me that I could put down 1×8 boards without surface nailing or screwing–however it is true. When flooring is dried properly it lasts beautifully.

Next comes the Varathane.

Spend the Money… Cheap varathane will not last. Buy the professional quality varathane for a durable finish.

We are using a paint tray with a liner, a broom handle and a wool varathane application head. Rule #1, Apply the varathane in even coats with the grain of the wood. #2 Maintain a wet edge. #3 don’t paint yourself into a corner!

Slow smooth motion will avoid air pockets within the finish.

Don’t apply too much at a time or you will have puddles. Give it 3 or 4 good even coats for a durable finish. Again, I can’t stress this point enough. $30.00 varathane will not last as well as $100.00 varathane. The better materials are nearly often worth the extra money!

Applying Stain– Old School

Here’s an exhausting hobby! Rule #1, get knee pads. The trick to this is to keep your wet edge to prevent color discrepancies. In just the few moments it took to focus and snap some photos I could see dark spots. Keep in mind though–once the varathane goes on you won’t see very much color variation. 

We actually had this color custom tinted by our paint store. It was a combination of 3 different colours in an effort to closely match a pine floor adjacent.

When it comes to finishing Hardwood you may want to leave this to the pros.

 

These are sheets of sandpaper that fit the drum sander–each machine is different so buy your paper where you rent or buy the machine. On harder species of wood we will start out using 18 grit, then 24, then 40, then 60 or 80.

Here are a few pro tips for actually installing the flooring.

Pulling the boards into place is not easy–so often we drive a chisel into the subfloor and use it to ratchet the boards tight for nailing. It always works better with 2 workmen.

Thresholds and in particular nosed thresholds at the top of stairs should look like the existing stair treads. You can rip a piece, glue, nail and screw to emulate the same look in most cases. Hide your screws where you can.

Casings and jamb extensions will often need trimming so that the flooring slips under and doesn’t leave an unsightly gap. We use a flush cut backsaw (a saw that cuts on the pull stroke–Japanese steel preferred), and rest it on a piece of the actual flooring for a guide.